She's Actual Size, Nationwide, Believe
From the Secret Files of Kat Donohue
Last updated:
5/30/2003; 12:06:37 PM


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Friday, November 29, 2002

Re: Heritage Turkeys

 

I was listening to a story on NPR this morning about the increasing homogenization of the domestic turkey.

 

The Slow Food organization (a group that “questions the validity of the ‘fast-food mentality’ and it’s erosion of culinary heritage”) is out to save the few remaining domestic turkey breeds.

 

Something like 99% of the food turkeys sold in the United States are one breed, the exotic and exciting “White” (yes, that’s it’s main claim to fame… “Well, it’s…white.”). It has been bred to have so much breast meat, it can’t mate in the “natural way” (it has to be artificially inseminated).

 

Slow Food is on a campaign to save the domestic turkey breeds, known as “Heritage turkeys”. Specifically, the Narragansett, the Jersey Buff, the bourbon red, and the American bronze.

 

Slow Food’s conservation philosophy is that to preserve species of vegetables and food animals that are dying out due to competition from cheaper, bigger, longer-lasting, and usually less-good-tasting factory-farm breeds. In order to save them, you have to eat them, creating commercial demand and encouraging farmers to dedicate more of their resources to cultivating them. Frankly, this is a plan I can get on board with.

 

They interviewed a farmer in Washington State who raises one of these turkey breeds (I forget which one – it was early – probably the American bronze). It didn’t seem that turkey farming was the great passion of his life. “I’m just looking for the day I can unload this farm and retire”, he said. “I lost two wives and three girlfriends because of this place.”

 

However, the Slow Foods people have created a demand for these turkeys in the foodie population in Seattle (Think Fraiser Crane). They’re offering him $2.50 per pound, whereas white turkey goes for about $0.99 per pound.

 

So, next Thanksgiving, go out and eat an endangered species. You’ll be glad you did.
7:14:20 AM    




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Last update: 5/30/2003; 12:06:37 PM.
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