Rustic Italian Loaf
Lots of thinking going on around here lately, which has been invigorating, but Meg pointed out the value of action and though she might have meant action of a more socially redeeming sort, I decided it was time to learn how to make a decent, distinctive loaf of bread.
I’d been carting around this recipe for well over a year, but the recipe called for a standing mixer and I did not have one. Nor did I especially want to get one, not before I was sure the bread would turn out. I would have been happy to knead but the recipe made no concessions for anyone who might not have a standing mixer, which I found a bit socially irresponsible. (Ah, but now I understand why: (See “Chewy Italian Bread Begins with a Biga”)
The wet dough used to make this bread is responsible for its large, irregular holes and wonderfully chewy texture. The dough is so sticky you can't knead it on a board - you must use a food processor or a heavy-duty mixer.
My mother-in-law, however, has two standing mixers. I’m not sure why; she may have inherited one. In any case, I asked to borrow one and we lugged it home Friday night.
On Saturday I started the “biga”. This sounds very exotic, but was no big deal. On Sunday I was pretty much tied to the kitchen, loosely, for most of the day, but the work itself was minimal, and interesting. With no pictures to guide me, just the words of Teri, ("I'd misplaced my issue of Cook's Illustrated) I was sure I was doing it all wrong; my dough was so gloppy! Yet, I persevered.
The recipe was supposed to make one long, giant loaf, but I don’t have a rectangular baking stone, just a round one. So I made two shorter loaves. I heated the baking stone for a good hour in a hot oven, then spritzed the dough with water before sticking into the oven—this is supposed to mimic the steam factor of an Italian oven.
When I took it out, after 45 minutes, I had produced two huge loaves: dark-brown and crunchy-on-the-outside, chewy and flavorful on the inside. Woo-hoo! Too delicious and definitely fit for company. I have finally found a bread recipe I enjoy and am proud of—just when the whole world is going low-carb crazy.
My philosophy is if I’m not supposed to eat very much of something, when I do indulge, I want it to be very, very good indeed.
Tonight we’ll be having a little garlic bread with our steak and salad. That’s it.
5:16:44 PM
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