Olympic Hot Springs: Tears of the Dragon
Part Three
An advertisement from this era states: “Here special baths may be taken for ailments that the mineral waters will relieve. There are eight hundred electric lights for lodge and cabins, long distance telephone connections, a handsome, rustic lobby and hotel service equal to the best. In addition to cold water on tap, hot mineral water is also on tap at various places on the grounds. At the camp store are all sorts of provisions and groceries may be obtained at prevailing market prices. One could prepare his own meals in his own cabin. Daily mail service and a regularly maintained taxi service from the lodge to Port Angeles over the new highway (sic). Hunting parties and guides. Taxi during July and August daily at 1:30 p.m. from the bus depot. Other months on Saturdays. Round trip $3.75. Lodge rates $4.50 per day or $28 per week, meals and bathing included. Furnished housekeeping cabins #2.00 per day or $9.00 per week and up. Supplies at store for sale.
The 1940s were a time of change at Olympic Hot Springs. The first year of the decade saw a major fire during the winter while the Schoeffels were away. It destroyed the lodge, but left most of the rest of the resort undamaged. A new lodge was constructed, which enclosed one of the pools. That same year, the Boulder Creek/Elwha River area was annexed into Olympic National Park, which then leased the resort to the Schoeffels.
During the 1950s, the National Park Service, in its infinite wisdom, decided that the mineral water in the pools should be replaced with fresh water, which could be chlorinated. The Schoeffels dutifully installed a filter system and used heated fresh water rather than the readily available mineral water. This caused an estimated 50 percent decline in business over the next year. The resort never recovered.
The Park Service closed the resort in 1966. Heavy snows during the following several winters collapsed the roofs of many of the buildings. In 1972, the Park Service razed the resort to the extent that few traces remain today.
Having dished out some lumps to the Park Service, I feel that it is only fair to praise the decision to return the area to its natural state. For those who want a more “civilized” experience, the concrete pools of Sol Duc are available just a few miles further west. For those who want a more natural experience, Olympic Hot Springs is a little bit of heaven.
In another wise decision, the Park Service decided to close off the final two miles of the road to vehicular traffic. They have also posted signs warning of the presence of fecal coliform bacteria in the springs. The spring water being highly alkaline, this is based on very dubious science. It may help keep the crowds down, so no one objects too strongly.
There is now an invigorating uphill hike highlighted by peaceful forests and rushing streams. Just the thing to prepare the body and soul for the healing experience at the springs. A primitive campground across the creek from the springs offers haven for those who wish to linger.
Since the Park Service makes a point of not promoting the area, it has become a fairly well guarded secret passed on primarily by word of mouth. That was how I first heard of the springs some thirty years ago. After more visits than I care to count, I can assure you that there is no physical or spiritual experience quite like sitting naked in the hot springs while snow falls all around.
8:15:45 PM 
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