A COUNTRY RIGHT & WRONG
Following 9/11 the world's sympathy lay four square with the United States. Even the left/liberal axis, so long entrenched in opposition to American imperialism masquerading as the militant defence of the little guy, melted as the horrors were revealed. Islam red in tooth & claw became the new shibboleth & suddenly the Moslem in the street carried the sins of the fanatical few on his back.
Now once again America is seen by marching millions all over the world as a force of darkness. A mighty country comprising a multitude of races & nationalities, each identifiable by its particular & widely various cultural characteristics, stands, increasingly isolated, about to embark upon an insane adventure. A small group of men & women in Washington has made certain decisions that will bind that polyglot population through the nation state to a course of action that in no way represents the everyday hopes, aspirations, priorities, needs of that vast collection of men & women spread out across the continent.
For decades I have entertained an ambivalent perception of the United States. From an obsession as a suburban middle class English child with Western frontier history I moved on to complete absorption as an adolescent with jazz, blues, American folk music & the poetry & prose of the beats. Both passions endure into middle age, surviving repugnance for the sometimes brutalist politics & policies of successive administrations, for the hysterical religious fundamentalism that prevails, for the relentless materialism that cheapens & coarsens so much of the fabric of American life.
But the vitality of its art springs from an openness, a readiness to engage with life, an appetite for interaction & communication, a freshness, that doesn't seem to characterize European social & cultural functioning. Certainly in Britain now there is a pervasive cynicism that goes way beyond its much vaunted cherishing of irony & detachment. And - the recent anti-war gatherings in London & Glasgow notwithstanding - this has led to a sort of quietism, a sardonic acceptance of political chicanery as being endemic to the process & therefore beyond reform.
A few years ago I crossed the Canadian border from British Columbia. It was my first visit to America & we were heading down through Washington & onto the Oregon coastline. Just across the border, while the others plundered the factory outlets, I sat in the car & looked around at a landscape at once alien & familiar, pondering my ambivalence. As 18-wheeler semis barreled down the highway & corn-fed families clambered out of pickup trucks I sketched out a sort of love poem, which eventually emerged thus…
DRIVING TO AMERICA
From that first bright prairie morning at the frontier of my days I have been driving to America
From the flock and horsehair saddle of a London cinema seat - Jimmy Stewart shrugging on a sheepskin coat in Where The River Bends - I have been driving to America.
Through the canyons and the arroyos. and the sagebrush trails of my back garden, lost in the folds of of a bright red cowboy shirt (all the way from Montreal) and squinting from beneath the brim of Grandpa's panama, I have been driving to America.
Through the longing for that too bright silver Lone Star pistol, hinged like for real before the trigger-guard, with a cylinder that actually revolved and a hammer you could cock, in a holster like the rawhide one that the kid next door but one wore hanging low, I have been driving to America.
Through the pages of the yellow paperbacks that ranged along my windowsill ("Triggernometry: a Gallery of Gunfighters", "Desperate Men: the James Gang and Butch Cassidy"), through their dusty streets and through the batwing doors of their saloons and in the cool dark of their livery stables, the bright noon heat of their desert days, and in the cordite stench of their gun battles (the OK Corral, the Lincoln County Cattle Wars, Jack McCall shooting Hickock in the back In Deadwood, South Dakota), I have been driving to America.
Then through the skidpan hiss of blue and purple-labelled 78s (London American and Capitol), the jump-jive scamper of Gene Vincent's Bluecaps or the thick fat gumbo beat of New Orleans - "I'm Walkin'", "Blueberry Hill", or the Macon, Georgia scream of Little Richard, or the hound dog longing of "One Night (With You)" - Presley's eyes sleepy with lust, the lip flickering into a sneer… Then later through the rattling snares and sneezing cymbals in the blare of Ory's blue trombone, white-heat of Armstrong's cornet; and the crosstown traffic clamour of Gillespie, Parker, Monk; the high water, muddy river surge of Mingus, Jimmy Knepper, Roland Kirk; and the basement pulse of Howling Wolf and Little Walter, Muddy Waters, Sonny Boy, under the Mississippi/Illinois stars; B.B., Albert, Freddie King, rocking with eyes tight shut in front of a herd of nodding saxes; through the tumbleweed, alfalfa, cottonfield and city cellar chaos of its music, I have been driving to America.
On the flatbed back of a farmboy's truck, heading south from Iowa to Denver, Colorado, Montana Slim, Sal Paradise beside me on the dream-road to Anywhere, USA; through mirror shades, the smoke from a chewed cigar, blue diesel haze, the silver powder of a starry night or the yellow flare of what might be a prairie moon, I have been driving to America…
And now, anonymous, unshadowed, hidden in the lee of a southbound truck, I wait at the border. Five black Canada geese pull themselves across the sky, quitting the mudbanks of the Fraser River for the deep-rift gorges of the long Columbia. A high sun straddles the 49th and through its dancing tarmac mist we roll like conquerors who have crossed immeasurable distances and now awaken in clear light on the real highway, driving to America.
11:12:59 PM
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