We were walking in the Left Bank yesterday when Christina said to me; "you know, when we get back to NY, one of the things I'll really miss is how nice everybody is". This has really been a big surprise. That's not to say we haven't met our share of curmudgeons... French bureaucrats are miserable like bureaucrats everywhere - self-important and officious (this is not a trivial problem in a country where everything is regulated). They mandate a 35 hour work week and a minimum vacation of 5 weeks per year. After that arduous work schedule, they retire at 58! They even have rules about when stores can have sales and how much prices can be reduced.
On the other hand, nothing is ever rushed. People have time to chat - in stores, restaurants, on the street. This weekend we were walking on the left bank. We stopped when a door opened revealing a beautiful courtyard. There was an older French gentleman who stopped as well. We (Christina) got into a conversation about the beautiful buildings and he pointed out some lovely sculptures (and told us the story behind them - there's always a mistress in it somewhere). He then led us on a 45 minute tour of the neighborhood showing us his favorite and least favorite sites, streets and alleyways. Along the way, we discussed the highlights of the "7 Ages of Paris" which we are currently reading. He told that, unlike many other Parisians, he knew about the City's history. He thought of himself as really quite a good tour guide--we certainly agreed! People see us struggling with our map (see A Love/Hate Reltationship) and stop to ask if we need help. Often, they walk us to our destination or take great pains to make sure we are going in the right direction.
On another night we were having dinner at Chez George. We got into a conversation with the man at the next table. He turned out to be a French businessman who had just sold a house in Manhattan (64th street). He spent the next hour telling us about restaurants in Paris that were not too "touristic". We (Christina) have also made friends with our local "epicier" (grocer), "teinturerie" (laundry), "boulangerie" (baker), and cafe waitress. Everybody seems to have time, and the desire, to chat (at least with Christina). The language is often a barrier but people seem willing to work with us (even when we tell them we want to speak French).
I know many of you are thinking, it's not the Parisians, it's Christina, but it's not only that. People seem to have the time and willingness to engage the way New Yorkers don't. In that way, there are great similarities with parts of the South and the Mid-West.
12:46:10 PM
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