Tuesday, October 28, 2003

Some recent restaurant experiences We've had some really good and some bad experiences in the last few days: Paul(!:)) http://www.paul.fr/index.htm (a chain of Boulangeries) This has been a great find (although not for our waistlines). In addition to the standard bakery fare, they have the best "flute pavot" (small baguette with poppy seeds) I have ever had. We have them with a Cafe Creme for breakfast and with various fillings for lunch. We sometimes plan our day around being near one at lunch. Unfortunately, or fortunately!, like anything in Paris they close at the oddest times (after lunch - just when we're getting hungry; Sundays, when every other boulangerie in Paris is open; Tuesdays???). Les Vapeurs du Marais: This had the distinction of being open on Sunday and being nearby. It is the second worst meal we have had since we have been here. The food looked and tasted like it had been prepared in advance and microwaved. In addition, the waiter was totally unhelpful. In answer to our questions about the menu, he just kept answering "poisson" with no further description. I had Rouget (small mullet). It was fried and tasted from old oil. Chris had salmon that had a crust making it look and taste like it had been cooked the day before. I had cheese for dessert. There was no selection. Just a cold plate of brie, camembert, mystery cheese and butter. It had obviously been precut and refrigerated.  We should have followed our initial reaction to leave when we first came in and noticed an odd odor--we were a little early and the waiter locked the door after we arrived! Chez George: This is a very traditional French Bistro. We had a lovely dinner. The tables are close together banquette style and we made  3 new friends. One of which was a French businessman who had just sold his house in Manhattan (64th Street) and was moving back to Europe. He had a home in Burgundy, a large apartment in the Louvre area and was looking for a home in Italy. He said he couldn't afford (tax-wise) to live in Paris!  Great dinner of pickled herring followed by a breast of duck for Christina and escargots followed by scallops for Paul.  Chez Georges 19 18 17 ?49 2eme arrondissement 1, rue du Mail (Bourse) Paris 014 2600711 "For the feel of Paris as it used to be", "rather stylish" regulars head to this "truly traditional bistro"; "it's the real thing" and it "never disappoints" with its "simple, honest" French eats, "generous portions" and "smiling servers"; tucked behind the Place des Victoires, "it's worth the hunt" for "old-fashioned fun." L'Osteria: This is an Italian restaurant that has the distinction of being recommended by Zagats, Michelin, Irv Molotsky (our landlord) and the French businessman we met at  Chez George. Despite all these recommendations we had never gotten there. It is located on a quiet street with no sign anywhere. Also, they are closed on Saturday, Sunday and Monday Lunch.They have only enough space for 30 people with paper tablecloths and napkins. Without all these recommendations we would never have tried it. It was fabulous! I started with a huge plate of jambon de Parma and Chris with Mozzarella de Bufala. They were both terrific. Then the "piece de resistance". We shared a Risotto Perdreux (Partridge). We each got a plate of risotto topped with a half a partridge. It may have been one of the best things I ever tasted. The partridge was cooked to perfection. It was tender and tasty with no gaminess. The risotto was firm and flavorful. The only disappointment was the cheese plate. They served undistinguised Italian cheeses (parmesan, padano and a mystery blue) but Christina oohed and ahhed over the fresh figs marinated in raspberry sauce.  OSTERIA (L') 24 13 16 ?52 4eme arrondissement 10, rue de Sevigne St-Paul) Paris 014 2713708 Shhh . . . "don't reveal this secret address" in the Marais, a "tiny" Italian that offers "the ideal combo of ambiance and food" -- especially "delicious pasta" and "great risotto"; "the dining room is very crowded" ("make friends with your neighbor's plate"), but folks don't mind, since it's packed with "well-known types from the worlds of TV, architecture and fashion", which probably explains the "steep tabs"; patrons put up with it, though, for the privilege of being "in the club."   Dome Du Marais According to the menu this is actually located in a 17th century pawn shop that only later became a church. We had a very nice meal. The only really memorable thing was I had my first (second if you count one in Italy in 1982) "Tete de Veau (veal head). It's a classic bistrot dish. It's served "off the skull" in Paris (unlike in Italy). It was OK. The meat is a bit mushy and fatty. They serve it with a grilled brain pancake. I probably won't feel the need to have it again. Dome du Marais (Le) - - - M 4eme arrondissement 53 bis, rue des Francs-Bourgeois (H?-de-Ville/Rambuteau) Paris 014 2745417 Located in a historic church -- hence, the gorgeous cupola over the dining room -- this handsome edifice has a popular new lease on life as a restaurant with a Breton accent; Nantes native chef Pierre Lecoutre skillfully reinterprets the region's traditional dishes, as well as offering an appealing range of French classics; N.B. it also boasts a terrace for summer dining -- a rarity in the Marais. 6:37:54 AM    comment []

A Love/Hate Relationship! Many people have correctly said that the Metro is the best way to get around Paris. What they haven't said is that it is usually the only way to get around! Paris, unlike more 'modern' cities, is not laid out in a grid. Here the concept of directions (N, S, E, W) or 'sides' (up/downtown, East/West side) is absent. All is oriented to the Seine, which is "U"-shaped. There are also no numbered streets that you can use to orient yourself. The Parisians compensate for this by locating addresses by "arrondisement" (borough) and Metro stop. All addresses usually include both the Arrondisement and Metro stop. Even the arrondisements are not laid out in a grid, but in a large spiral (like an "escargot" as the Parisians say). Here, businesses include the local Metro stop in their ads.  Imagine Le Cirque providing you with their subway stop as part of their address! The problem with the Metro is it does not run in straight lines either. Look at the map below. Except for the suburban RER, none of the metro lines go straight. The meander and zig-zag all over the place. Once you figure out the map, the Metro is easy to use (that is why Chris loves it). Every stop is clearly marked and every sign includes the endpoint for that line and every stop on the line. This is important because there are umpteen Metro lines and you never go anywhere without changing at least once. However, we much prefer the buses. You ride above ground and can see the city as you travel. There is an extensive bus system, but even the Parisians admit you can't figure it out. The routes are even more jumbled than the Metro. This weekend we were going to the Tuileries. We were proud that we knew which bus line to take. Unfortunately, that bus line does not run on Sunday! Taxis are a bit pricy but comfortable. Unfortunately, they can be very difficult to find. They cannot be hailed within 50 meters of a taxi stand (and they seem to pay attention to that rule). Unfortunately, no one seemed to consider that if you knew there was a taxi stand nearby you wouldn't be trying to flag them down to begin with. Also, for some reason, some stands don't seem to 'work' all the time. That leaves walking. We (that includes me) love walking around Paris. We walk wherever we can; which is most places in the city center. The small, meandering streets are a pleasure to stroll down.  However, the street names seem to change every block two and the building numbers seem to be randomly assigned and frequently hidden or missing (at least in the older areas like the Marais where we are). It frequently takes us a lot longer to get anywhere than we expected. Fortunately we are not in a hurry!  Paul (October 20, 2003) Addendum from Chris: The good news is that I have never been averse to asking for directions and since arriving in Paris, Paul indulges this as a way for me to practice my French!  5:24:53 AM    comment []

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