Tuesday, November 04, 2003

Looking for apartments in Paris Not long after we arrived in Paris, we knew we wanted to return. And, because we are still strongly considering buying or leasing an apartment, we wanted to be sure that it was the right thing to do for the long term. We’ve agreed that keeping both the NY apartment and Berkshires house is important because they are each home to us in a different way. This was to be a "pied a terre" in Paris. In Paris, we immediately felt comfortable and loved the area we were in, but thought it wise to explore other neighborhoods and  a different season before moving ahead.  So, we decided to rent an apartment for 6 weeks in the St. Germain area this coming spring (May-June). Chris took on the lead responsibility J for identifying apartments. She was naive and happily agreed! We got newspapers, magazines and referrals from everywhere. We visited rental offices, talked to people in restaurants and stores and made good use of all our networking skills. The bottom line is - the internet is the best way to go. There are literally hundreds of sites ranging from personal ads with only a couple of apartments to large services. Chris spent more than two weeks glued to the computer (when we weren't eating!). I have included some of the links for the more masochistic of you. We did come to the realization that renting an apartment is the way to go if you are going to be here for more than a week. There are lovely apartments with good services for about 200 euros a day. As of today, we have found a lovely one bedroom apartment in the 6eme (St. Germain) for May 1 – June 15. So we’ll be back!   Vacation Rentals by Owners: http://www.vrbo.com/vrbo/fra.htm Lodgis: http://sublet.apartment-paris.com/en/--65a1ba08b6--/contact/ Cooper: http://www.wfi.fr/cooper/     6:40:48 AM    comment []

Recent restaurant updates I have been remiss in updating our journal for recent restaurant experiences. This posting should bring me up to speed through yesterday: Bilboquet This is a small, pretty cabaret in the St. Germain area. They serve food but we came after dinner. There is not cover charge but drinks are about 18 euros ($20). We stayed through 2 sets and had 2 drinks each. I thought it was pretty reasonable and would go back. They don't have any published schedule beyond the current and next act. Chex L'Ami Lois and Chez Jenny We had reservations at Chez L'Ami Louis, a well known, but very small (40 people) bistrot famous for it's meats and huge portions. They asked us to confirm when we made the reservation, but typically we forgot until too late. We called, got voice mail, and left a message. We then walked, about a mile in drizzling rain, to the restaurant - only to be told that they had given away our table. Apparently, the message on the voice mail says not to leave a message after 3:00. Our FRench was not up to the challenge. We called at 4:00. Louis was very apologetic (not enough for me but enough for Chris who had made the reservation and felt guilty about not confirming - I thought they should have found us another restaurant nearby). We then went to Chez Jenny. A short distance away. The Zagats review has it just right - "fabulous setting" that is "better than the food". Unfortunately, they asked us if we wanted non-smoking and we foolishly agreed. There is a small non-smoking area outside the beautiful main dining room. It is separated from the smoking section by a small plant. The people on the other side of the plant were smoking cigars. The good news is we made the acquaintance of the two French women at the next table who were similarly afflicted by the smoke. We now know to never ask for non-smoking in France. It's always in the least desirable place and never far from smokers. We had Alsatian charcuterie (assorted German sausages), the house specialty. It was barely edible - too fatty and not spicy enough. Chris was especially chagrined with the sauerkraut. It was pretty tasteless. Apparently, she has childhood memories of homemade sauerkraut aging in the cellar. This was a bitter disappointment. Chez Jenny 13 15 13 ?43 3eme arrondissement 39, bd du Temple (Republique) Paris 014 4543900 Despite a drop in the Decor score, this "big, buzzy" brasserie off the Place de la Republique lures a constant crowd with its "fabulous setting" featuring "sculpted wood and marquetry"; although the ambiance is "better than the food", Alsatian advocates attest that "for choucroute garnie this is the place to be" -- even as grumpsters gripe "the sauerkraut has lost its soul" since the acquisition by the Francois Blanc group; P.S. fair-weather Parisians proclaim the flowering patio "real nice in summer."   Atelier Maitre Albert This is a surprisingly modern-looking restaurant (large open spaces and tables). It is a Jacques Cagna (Michelin 3 star chef) spinoff. They specialize in rotisserie cooking and the large fireplace is the center of attraction. We both had Faisane Roti (pheasant). It was terrific - tender and moist, not gamey. It was served with outstanding french "mac and cheese" (Penne gratinee en francais). Typically we loved the pheasant, but couldn't stop talking about the penne. The portions are a little smaller here than in most of the other bistros we have been at - but frankly we welcomed a smaller portion. The French seem to be following the American style of larger portions.       Atelier Maitre Albert 14 18 17 ?44 5eme arrondissement 1, rue Maitre Albert (Maubert-Mutualite) Paris 014 6331378 For a whiff of Vieux Paris, ambiance-seekers head to this Classic French, fondly known for its "medieval" setting and large "open fireplace" -- a sure draw in winter; it stands out among "the many, many places in the Latin Quarter" for its "honest" food, particularly the "roasted meats."   Au Gamin de Paris This is a nice restaurant within a block of our apartment. Zagats ratings are just about right but the words go a bit overboard. It is a very cozy place with candles on the tables and in the fireplace. The service is very friendly. About half the patrons seem to be French. The food is solid if a bit slapdash in it's presentation. I had Magret de Canard (duck breast) that was quite good and Christina had lamb cutlets (lamb is the only meat we eat here) which were OK if a bit overdone. The carafe of house wine was also good. One of the nice things is you can just have a salad (they have a whole menu of just salads) or a plat without feeling obligated to order a whole meal. It's a great place for a "quick" bite or a light meal. The food is better than a cafe but not up to the standards of a true restaurant or bistrot. Gamin de Paris (Au) 14 12 11 ?35 4eme arrondissement 51, rue Vieille du Temple (Hotel-de-Ville/St-Paul) Paris 014 2789724 "Right in the heart of the Marais", this "favorite" candlelit Classic French glows with "warm atmosphere" and "consistently good", "affordable" fare -- though even supporters sigh over the "lamentable service"; regulars recommend you "make a reservation" and "avoid Saturday nights, when anarchy reigns." 6:01:45 AM    comment []

It's raining in Paris October 29, 2003   It's raining in Paris!   For the past few weeks we have had nothing but sunshine! Most of our time has been spent exploring as much of the outdoors as possible.  We have mostly been waiting for the fall rains to visit museums and other indoor locations. Yesterday we wandered all over the Isle St. Louis and then sat outside a small cafe soaking up the late afternoon sun; people watching as we sipped some hot spiced wine (delb: absolutely awful).  It was so warm we couldn't resist stopping for a scoop of ice cream at our favorite shop on the Island called 'Amorino'.  Those who know Paris will think us traitors because the "all time favorite" here is the famous 'Berthillon'!  We beg to differ, and would match the rich flavorful Amorino scoops against the miserly balls of Berthillon anytime.   So today it's raining and we decided to head off to the 'Pompidou Center' -- a quick few blocks from our apartment.  Many people in Paris consider this structure to be an eyesore because the architect put all the inner workings of the building on the outside.  His goal was to let people see what it took to make a building function.  He color coded all the pipes, airshafts etc. so they could be easily distinguished and placed them on the outside.  This structure really doesn't fit in with the old 18th and 19th century buildings around it, but as a center of modern art it seems quite perfect.  It is extremely well used by the people in the city because apart from modern art, this is the site of one of the most extensive city libraries.  People, mostly students, can be found daily in long lines to use the facilities due to insufficient resources of local schools.    This was the perfect place to spend a rainy afternoon exploring the more modern works of Picasso, Matisse, Kandinsky and others not so well known to us.  We ended our stay on the 6th floor of the building, where we enjoyed lunch overlooking the rooftops of Paris.  Who could ask for anything more!       CDF/29/Oct./03 4:43:21 AM    comment []

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