Travel commentary
Travels of Paul and Chris without Gin and Tonic

 



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  Tuesday, November 11, 2003


November 11, 2003

 

Today is Armistice day, a holiday here with schools and most shops closed.  It was picture perfect! So much so that Paul and I were able to enjoy lunch outdoors in the vicinity of the Notre Dame.  We were out most of the day in fact, exploring the Latin Quarter and wandering around the rue Mouffetard that has been around since the 1600's.  There are so many cute neighbourhoods here, that it will take us years to explore all the little nooks and crannies this city has to offer.  Even with shops closed, the streets were alive with people.  Here in the Latin Quarter you can find a variety of ethnic restaurants ranging from Greek to Vietnamese.  Each has its own distinct smell and look and is very different from the Marais where we live.

One of our favourite discoveries in the south section of this Quarter is an old bookshop  called 'Shakespeare & Company'.  This is a long standing Paris landmark on the left bank, opened in 1951 by George Whitman.  The original 'Shakespeare & Company' was owned by Sylvia Beach in the 1920's and was home to literary luminaries such as James Joyce, Earnest Hemingway and Ezra Pound.  Today, the shop is still a gathering place for writers and there are regular readings each week.  There is a bookstore on the ground floor with rooms that are much like a library upstairs.  Here anyone can wile away the hours in comfortable chairs with books selected from the shelves.  If you have a story and/or get permission from the owner, you can even bunk for any number of days in these same upstairs rooms.  For more information about the colourful history of this unusual find, check out their website at:  www.shakespearco.org.

 

 

 

We are in our 6th week in Paris and while we feel quite at home, it seems as if we only arrived yesterday.    

 

                         


5:31:19 PM    comment []

Most of our meals in Paris have been at bistros, resturants, or cafes and in the past 6 weeks, we have sampled and tasted many things that are new to us.  We have learned for instance, that the French love poached eggs on their salad and it is not uncommon to find eggs in many of the starter courses on menus even in the most elegant resturants.  When we go out, we try to be adventurous in our selections and sometimes we simply point to an item on the menu and hope for the best!  As Paul says, "The worst that can happen is we miss a meal, and we can certainly afford to do that!".  The other amazing discovery is that it is almost as hard to find a bad cup of coffee in Paris as it is to find a good cup of coffee in New York! 

Since Paul has posted most of the reviews, I thought that I would add my two cents worth given that the latest round of selections were places that I particularly liked.

L'Epi Dupin, 11, rue Dupin in the 6th (Metro: Sevre) 01.42.22.64.56

This was the first place that I was asked when making the reservation if we would be able to be out in 2 hours!   I said yes, but we weren't and it wasn't a problem.  The decor is spartan, and small, but we had a cute table by the wall with no one near us.  The clientelle a mixture of tourists and locals and the service was friendly.  I have to say that this was one of the most interesting menus we have seen with a mixture of game, fish and beef.   To start Paul selected the calamari served on a bed of celeric and beets--it was great!  I began with an endive tart with apple and cinammon that I also liked very much.  My main course was 'fois de veau' (veal liver). Don't groan, it was incredible, and served perfectly pink accompanied with roasted potatoes and a vegetable relish that was outstanding.  Paul enjoyed his meal (which he can't remem ber) and cheese  topped off the meal beautifully.  Portions were perfect so we didn't feel stuffed and the enitre meal with wine was less then 100 Euros.







EPI DUPIN (L')

22
13
17
?44




6eme arrondissement
11, rue Dupin (Sevres-Babylone) Paris 014 2226456

Surveyors Comments were MixedMany know this "very popular" bistro in the 6th where chef-owner Francois Pasteau serves up "delicious" food ("the cod with gravlax was a revelation -I thought only I could make my girlfriend's face look like that") as one of "Paris' biggest bangs for the buck"; but this "price-performer" may be "getting arrogant", as several snarl over "the difficulty of making reservations", long waits and "snippy", "overwhelmed" service in the "small, frenetic" dining room; to decide for yourself, be sure to "book early."

 

Petit Prince de Paris, 12, rue de Lanneau in the 5th, 01.43.54.77.26

This resturant is in the Latin Quarter up the hill near the Pantheon.  It is a little out of the way, but worth the treck.  Like L'Epi Dupin, they asked if we could be out by 9:30pm with a 7:30 reservation.  Our lingering also didn't cause a problem, but we did notice that they filled tables as soon as they were emptied.

The people were charming, the decor cute and the tables the usual cozy distance from your neighbour!  Here too, there was an interesting menu with no poached eggs to be found anywhere!  We both had the plat du jour of duck served with au gratin potatoes and a light sauce.  We passed on desert to finish our wine and found the meal a bargain at less then 70 Euros.







Petit Prince de Paris (Le)Open Late Night (after 11)Open Sunday

21
18
20
?36




5eme arrondissement
12, rue de Lanneau (Maubert-Mutualit?Paris 014 3547726

Surveyors Comments were UniformAn atmosphere of "sweetness and tolerance" explains the long reign of this little prince, "a quiet oasis in Saint-Germain"; if groupies gush that the Classic French "food has consistently been fantastic", it's the "cheery service", "plush setting" and fact that it's "not expensive" that seal the place's popularity; "come as a couple", of any stripe, since the scene "is gay in all meanings of the word."

 

Faugeron, 52, rue de Longchamp in the 16th, 01.47.04.24.53

A splurge in every sense of the word!  At this charming beautifully decorated resturant we sat at a large table that would have seated 4 or more in a bistro. We we unable to overhear and join in the conversations of those next to us!  The food and service was what you might expect form a  Michelin resturant and we loved being fussed over!  Our waiter indulged my French and corrected my pronunciation without seeming offensive.  We enjoyed the meal from the beginning of our 'coups de champagne' through to the cheese and dessert.  This resturant specializes in wild game. Our selections of wild rabbit for me and venison (male) for Paul seemed like the perfect choice.  We were not disappointed because the meat was tender, the portions just right.  I would have liked a little less sauce on my rabbit, but the flavour was outstanding.  We had a wonderful 1998 Cote Roti. The food was fresh, piping hot and as I said before the service outstanding. We both had desserts, vefry elegant fruit tats (pear millefeuille and a fruit lafoutis).  This meal was not a bagain at 350 euros! 



FAUGERON

25
20
24
?105




16eme arrondissement
52, rue de Longchamp (Trocad?) Paris 014 7042453

Surveyors Comments were UniformRun by Henri (winner of the Legion d'Honneur) and Gerlind Faugeron, this "small, sparkling" restaurant in the 16th is "certainly one of the best tables in Paris", offering "consistently superb" Classic French regional cooking, like the "celebrated soft-boiled egg with pureed truffle"; "professional, discreet service", plus "well-spaced tables", makes it an "absolute favorite", and while it's "on the expensive side", most find prices "fair" for "such an elegant", "unforgettable" place

 

Le Baron Rouge,

The perfect stop after a morning at the street market in the 12eme.  At Baron Rouge you can come and taste a variety of wines both red and white by the glass, enjoy fresh shucked oysters and then before going home, have your own bottle filled from one of the many casks that line the wall.  This small wine bar has friendly service at the bar, a few tables along the wall and several stand-up spots scattered throughout the room.  There was loud reagge music playing the day we were there and the place was filled at 11:30 in the morning.  Wines by the glass ranged from 1.20 - 3.00 Euros and there was a wide selection of both red and white.

 


Baron Rouge (Le)

13
15
13
€22




12ème arrondissement
1, rue Théophile Roussel (Ledru-Rollin) Paris 014 3431432

Surveyors Comments were UniformThis "classic" "neighborhood" bar à vins promotes good spirits, especially "on Sundays", when the nearby Marché d'Aligre is in full swing and patrons wash down "oysters and charcuterie served on the sidewalk" with "good wines"; it's best for "small bites" -- appropriately, since the "popular" scene makes "Paris feel like a village."

 

 


5:27:29 PM    comment []


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