Mindblogging Adventure Tales by Rob Lewis

Mon, 29 Mar 2004 20:39:08 GMT

Airplane tales.
A marathon trip to Sri Lanka. Ignoring the fact that Sri Lanka is far -- for those who dont know, it is a dozen or so miles south of India, the journey over was a chore.

1) No seat assigned at check in at JFK -- always good to start a long journey with some low level stress about having to sit in the middle on a full transatlantic flight.

2) Sat in an aisle seat for about 30 minutes. For some reason (code share with el al?) there were a dozen or so Hasidic jews on the Swiss Air flight. A really big one (6'3" or so) was eyeballing the seat next to me (I was the aisle seat on a four across middle section), but hesitating to sit down. It turns out that in the other middle seat was a older woman - and Hasidic men dont sit next to women. So the flight attendant asked the woman's companion (an older man sitting on the aisle) to swap seats with the woman. He did so, but not before raising a huge stink about not wanting to sit next to the Hasidic jew -- and doing so in a way to incite the other passengers against the Hasidic guy. This dropped the desirability of my aisle seat by several notches 1) the Hasidic was big enough to encroach on my personal space (which usually includes both arm rests) 2) even with my super powered ear plugs, there was no way the guy sitting to the other side was going to be a pleasant travelling companion 3) while I may not have any of the prejudicial tendencies of the complainer, I hate sitting next to stinky guys, and the huge Hasidic guy, draped in heavy black clothing did smell something fierce.

Fortunately, the flight attendant asked me if I would give up my seat for the Hasidic guy's companion. While there was no religious reason for his buddy to want my seat, I knew a good thing when offered, and made a lateral trade to a bulkhead middle seat.

Got into Zurich at 8am, and wandered around town trying to kill a day before catching the connecting flight to colombo at 6pm. Zurich is a pleasant enough walking city, but it was only a matter of time before exhaustion caught up with me. Clever me, I found a health club (similar in quality to an Equinox) where I could take a swim and chill out in the sauna. Learned how to read rudimentary signage including the German word nackt (which is naked) and I did in Rome what Romans do -- except I was in Zurich.

Clean as a whistle, I made it back to the airport to find the Colombo flight was delayed a few hours. When we finally boarded, I was pleasantly surprised to find an empty 4-across row, and slept for most of the next 12 hours.

Colombo.
Prior to arriving, I was warned about the aggressive, random driving in Colombo. And having travelled throughout the East, I was pretty sure I've seen it all. The easiest compare is India -- same combinations of poor roads and a variety of fast and slow moving obstacles (cars, trucks, 3-wheeled tuk tuks, jay walkers, and the sort). The major difference stems from the religion. India is hindu - which venerates cows, even cows in the middle of the road. Sri Lanka is catholic (courtesy of the Portuguese) and have no cows in the road.

Cutlery.
On Wednesday, I had lunch with a group of young professional associates of the company I was meeting with. The 6 of us went to a medium-high end restaurant to sample the "curry and rice" buffet. These guys were local Sri Lankans -- smart, funny and generally in good spirits -- and happy to introduce me to their cuisine. Lots of spicy curries (cashew curry is rich and delicious) and even spicier sambals (my favorite is dessicated coconut mixed with chilis and lime). Looking around the restaurant, I noticed that all of the other diners were local, save for one table of foreigners. And all of the locals were eating western-style (with cutlery) and all of the westerners were scooping the food up with their right hand (like Sri Lankas supposedly do). I took a quick poll to see how my companions cared to eat, and all preferred cutlery. But, since I was there, we all ate with our hands.

Hassan the Jeweler.
My contact in Sri Lanka (an American Asia-hand who I knew from my Hong Kong days) told me to look up Hassan - his jeweler and fishing buddy. So I arranged to see Hassan at the hotel, to see what he can offer. Hassan is a 6'2" lanky 40 year-old with a 30-year old face due to a seriously laid-back disposition that is only helped by a weekly dose of fishing. Sri Lanka is known for its garments, tea and colored stones -- and Hassan is showing me lots of pretty things. After our dealings, he asked if I had lunch, I say no, and he suggests we have lunch together. I hop in his car and we spend the next 30 minutes dodging other trucks, cars, tuk tuks, jaywalkers and the sort, on the way to lunch. Im asking him all kinds of questions about the gem industry, Sri Lanka politics (they have a separatist terrorist problem that is remarkably similar to that of Israel), and Arthur C Clarke. Clarke, who is an accomplished pederast with a view towards writing (or an accomplished writer with a view towards pederasty -- depends on your moral persuasion), lives in Colombo. I did not see him, but I did see several road signs in written solely in english condemning child abuse, and I wonder whether they were created for an audience of one.

Finally, we arrive at the Ceylon Hockey and Football Gymkhana Club. I have a real soft spot for clubs like the Royal Whitianga Yacht Club, Foreign Correspondents Club (Hong Kong) and any of the other vestiges of English colonial life. And this place is right there among the best of them -- 150 years of history, rickety beamed ceilings, cricket on the telly, dodgy curry buffet, plus the obligatory plaques dedicated to the glorious dead of several wars. Of all of the meetings I had in Colombo, Hassan was the best.

More meetings today (Friday) before heading back late tonight via London. Hopefully the return with be shorter and smoother.

Sun, 22 Feb 2004 21:39:06 GMT

Thursday, February 12, 2004

Back on schedule

After an exciting two days in Taupo, I loaded my bike on the bus heading for Auckland.

Since Tricia was not due in till 11:15pm., I had a free day in Auckland. I spent the morning cycling (the last few kms for the trip), and in the afternoon went sailing on an America's Cup class sailboat. The company that runs the cruises tries its best to make it a "hands on" experience for those who want to put their hands on the boat, and we all had a chance to grind the giant winches that load the sheets (ropes for non sailors), and do a bit of steering.... ...felt like sailing, but in a really smooth and responsive way... fear not -- these boats run in the hundreds of thousands of dollars (considering all of the carbon fibre and titanium parts) -- renting is much better than owning.

Things get dicey.
When I spoke to Tricia earlier in the day.. she told me that her flight from JKF to LAX had been cancelled due to snow, but she was able to get on a UA flight, and that everything was fine with her connection to Auckland. I get to the airport around 11:30pm knowing that customs, immigration and baggage claims can take at least an hour.... and I wait. and wait....no sign of Tricia. Two hours later, long after everyone else had cleared customs.... (and Im thinking "Was she not on the flight? Did she leave the airport without seeing me? I called the hotel, no Tricia and no messages.... hmmm). Finally Tricia was able to get a call to my cell phone from behind customs to tell me that Air NZ had lost some baggage and that she would be out soon. It turns out that only her bad was lost (which was the most needed of the two since I had bike clothes), and that Air NZ would try to get the bags to Nelson... where we were headed the next day.

After more sightseeing in Auckland, we arrive at the airport one bag short to find that the domestic flights I had booked were in fact cancelled by the travel agent. And with the agent closed for business on Sunday, we had to sort the mess out on Monday. I repurchased one-way tickets to Nelson (at a much higher price), and we finally got to Nelson so that we could start our trek first thing monday morning (that is if the bags reached us). The innkeepers at the Cathedral Inn, hearing of our plight, took pity on us, and drove us to the airport first thing monday morning to reunite Tricia with her baggage, and then a further 45min up the road to the meeting point with the trekking company. All of this time, I am arguing with the travel agent that shafted us, asking them to explain why the reservation was cancelled, and to rebook us on the return leg. We were only able to get return flights at an astronomical price - and then started the trek at 10:00am in a hugely stressed state.

Its funny what 3 days of hiking in the hills, kayaking to seal colonies, and sleeping in country lodges can do to de-stress things. We returned to Nelson, and the Cathedral Inn, sorted out the return air tickets eventually at a more reasonable price, and wandered around this charming town. Hit the restaurants, museums and hillside walks that Nelson is known for, and are finally back on schedule. Today we explore the Queen Charlotte Track on our way to the Marlborough Wine Festival.

Sailing in Auckland Harbour...

Sun, 22 Feb 2004 21:38:22 GMT

Thursday, February 05, 2004

Fish tales

Thursday -- flyfishing day.

5:30 am -- more rain. this is a big joke. and im thinking "well, its good to get the rain out of the way before tricia gets here." but im really thinking "this sucks."

7:30 am -- no rain, promising skies and a clear look across Lake Taupo.

7:50 am -- Fishing Guide Alex shows up in his SUV and we are off to the creeks around central North Island. Alex outfits me with waders -- a thick neoprene wetsuit bib with built in booties. He gives me a pole and we walk off into the woods, following winding trails along the side of a creek. Occasionally we stomp through thick swampy mud and eventually get to our first fishing corner. He explains that there are between 5 - 50 trout per kilometer, that the fish are not easily fooled, are easily frightened, and that it is more like hunting than catching fish... ...I am really pumped.

For the next few hours I am standing knee deep in the cool waters, casting the fly, aiming for a hole, making sure that the fly can drift free in the current, and yanking the pole at the slightest dip of the floating marker. I dont catch any fish so we move to another spot. and another spot. and another spot. Hiking in a thick neoprene tracksuit is great exercise. At this point, I am begining to master casting the fly into the right spot, and the fly is getting stuck in the growth along the riverbed every 30 minutes rather than every 10 when I first started. Still no fish -- this is a tough sport, and after nearly 3 hours, I still could not tell you why this spot is "the right spot", or any of the other facets about flyfishing. With 10 minutes to go, I see a fish jump up and take my fly.... .... its only a baby trout ... 6 inches or so... catch, shoot a picture and release. Six inches of fish makes the difference between great success and huge disappointment.

I get back to the room about 1pm empty handed staring at kitchenette that seems to be mocking me.

Capt Bill Dawson is a good guy.
Three years ago, when I got to Taupo, I signed up for a sailing tour on the Barbary, A wooden sailing ship once owned by Errol Flynn in the 30's. Capt Bill Dawson and I got to chatting, and after the cruise, he invited me to join the Lake Taupo yacht club in their Wednesday night races. Three years later, I popped by to say hello and he invited me out for an the afternoons cruise. Same stories, same sights, but nice to be out on the water and to see a familiar face.

Rob and Captain Bill...

Friday -- fish catching.
It is so much easier to troll for trout on the Lake than to flyfish. Friday morning I arrange for a fishing boat to try my luck on the lake. With the aid of fishfinders and other modern conveniences, Capt Graeme, a father-son couple and I head off to bag more trout. Sure enough, 30 min into the 3 hour trip, I bag a 4lb beauty (see before pic). The father and son are not so lucky, catching one fish that was less than legal size. A quick trip to the local supermarket and Mcdonalds (salt and pepper sachets) and I was back in the kitchenette showing the room (and the fish) who the boss was (see after pic).

Before...

And After....

Im off to Auckland this afternoon and will see Tricia tomorrow night!!

Sun, 22 Feb 2004 21:37:30 GMT

Wednesday, February 04, 2004

Mindboggling adventures postponed on account of rain

In the last episode:

Rob caught a fish, had a beer and pondered the rain.

In this episode:

More rain.

For the last 4 days, I have wandered from town to town, down the Eastern Coromandel coast and across the Bay of Plenty (as in "nice Bay... Plenty of rain"). Some interesting (Tauranga) and not so interesting (Waihi Beach) towns. To pass the time, I found a Bikram Yoga studio in Mt Maunganui. For those not in the Yoga know -- Bikram is in a heated room (about 105 degrees) and you sweat... stand still and sweat beads... bend over and sweat drips off... lie down and sweat drenches the towel... honestly I dont remember the postures being that difficult, but boy was I sweating. Nothing like a following a dehydrating sweat with drinking beer and watching the superbowl at one of the local pubs. Maybe not what Bikram had in mind, but he does not know what he is missing.

With Saturday (picking up Tricia at the airport... yeah!!!!!) soon approaching, and the weather showing some signs of breaking, I hopped on a bus this morning and headed down to Lake Taupo. When I was here three years ago, the town seemed much smaller, I kept my stay to a mere 12 hours, but still managed to fit in hot springs, a great massage and some sailing. I have since found out that I missed some of the best trout fishing in the world. So tomorrow morning, I am off to wade in the streams that feed Lake Taupo. Even though it is my first experience fly fishing, I have enough optimism to have booked a motel room with a kitchenette. Think pan fried trout with a brown butter sauce.... yum.

Hopefully there will be some sun in the next few days... and some real adventures (as opposed to getting sweaty on a mat in a hot room). Maybe even a long bike ride or two.

Sun, 22 Feb 2004 21:37:00 GMT

Friday, January 30, 2004

Im drunk and I smell like fish guts

I awoke early to hear that this weekend would be full of rain. Not too worried about today, as you could not pay me to sit on a bike, but this raises questions about the next few days. Wait a minute (I thought) if it rained, does that mean no fishing? Thankfully no. I got on to a charter early this morning with 3 Kiwis and a captain (also Kiwi). We headed out under heavy cloud cover and motored into the South Pacific in search of red snapper and some game fish (kingfish to be exact). Captain Rod (actually a funny name considering.... not quite as funny as Captain Reel or Squid but still...) set sail for about 30 minutes, then we stopped and the captain handed out poles. The fish were biting. It took no more than 10 minutes and the boat was full of mackerel.... now I love mackerel... especially grilled, its really greasy with a really fishy smell, but in Japan they serve it with breakfast, kinda like Japanese kippers. There is no way New Zealanders, who in the face of a bounty of fresh fruit and seafood often choose fried meat pies, would eat mackerel. Sure enough, the first hour was spent finding live bait for red snapper. Over the next 7 hours, it rained, we got wet, but fish were caught. Mostly Teranahi (my guess at spelling), and Blue Mau Mau (good for throwing back into the sea). I did end up catching a Kingfish --below legal keeping weight, but big enough for the photo (enclosed). Back in port we stopped off for the obligatory drink at the Mercury Bay Yacht Club... a dive for locals to drink and tell stories about fishes that got away... Since it was only polite to buy a round for all involved.... im sporting a bit of a buzz right now.... Stay tuned... Im off to cook my share of the catch.

Sun, 22 Feb 2004 21:36:20 GMT

Wednesday, January 28, 2004

On the first day of hanukah
On the first day of hanukah, my true love gave to me a really cool watch with built in gps.

Now I am at S37.08.666, E175.32.720.... which is one huge hill and several hours cycling from S36.56.562 E175.10.515, also hours from my starting point of S36.51.213 E174.46.750. Being nowhere near a proper map, I assume these coordinates are correct (it would be really funny if I was cycling through the middle of the Indian Ocean).

In terms of place names , I started in Auckland, cycled across to the coastal town of Kawakawa bay and this morning and atfernoon made my way to Thames (each corresponds with the coordinates above). So far the cycling has been great... after working my way down from Auckland through its suburbs, I was able to cut across beautiful rolling farms full of (as one would expect) sheep. and cows. and horses. Lots of fresh fruit stands along the way to keep me powered and I even ran into a oyster farm. (much more briny than atlantic or northern pacific oysters.... really good).

After tackling a huge hill that was being resurfaced (imagine uphill on a heavy bike riding ... and eventually walking... up gravel. Thankfully this part of NZ is sparsely populated.... very few cars and trucks. The road wound its way down to the west side of the Firth of Thames for miles of sunny travel on empty roads along side the First (Firth is kinda like cross between a fjord and a bay for Scottish folks). Everything was perfect save for a slight headwind. Then after stopping in a nearby hotsprings to soften up a rather sore butt (more on this later), the wind changed directions as if the lord himself was saying "on your way Rob!"... an hour later He spoke again saying" Now hurry up" through the use of a quick downpour.

I wandered into Thames around 2:30 to find not a lot. The Firth is muddy on this side so no fishing or sailing, and I as I mentioned earlier, my butt is really sore. So instead of taking a rest day here, I am about to hop on a bus (not really cheating is it?) to Whitianga where they do have sailing and fishing and I can rest my cheeks for a day.

Sun, 22 Feb 2004 21:35:03 GMT

Tuesday, January 27, 2004

On the road again.... in sunny New Zealand
I am sweating... this is a very good thing considering that most of the people reading this are planning to get buried in foot or so of snow. It is in the high 70's low 80's sunny skies and I have just cycled from Auckland to Papakura on my way to either Kawakawa bay or some place entirely differently depending on wind direction.

The bike (and myself) managed to cross time zones and hemispheres in one piece and I was able to assemble and ride out of the hotel without a hitch. So far no adventures to report about, just a long ride on the "Great South Road" out of Auckland.