Pickles N. Jams: Preserving Food

Wed, 10 Aug 2005 14:29:06 GMT

Serendipity and Apple Jelly When something, no matter how seemingly insignificant, turns out just right it lifts us up and makes our day. Monday night my friend came over to make to make apple jelly. I had picked up some tart green apples at the Farmer's Market on Saturday. Sunday night I cut them up and boiled them with some water and let the juice drain off overnight. I read in several books to expect 1 cup of juice from 1 pound of apples. We started out with a little over 3 pounds of apples and ended up with about 11 cups of juice. I was certain the juice was too watery. I wanted to add just enough water to cover the apples, but of course the apples floated to the top (duh!) so I ended up with more water in the pot than I had intended. We cooked some of the juice down some more and had 9 cups when we started making the jelly. We divided it into two batches and decided to make one batch plain and one batch scented with lemon verbena. We used three cups of sugar and one lemon per batch. Each batch yielded four jars of the most delightful jelly, with a perfect set and just sweet enough to bring out the fresh slightly tart apple flavor without overpowering it. And the lemon verbena is so wonderful and subtle. I think the flavor of the verbena has changed over the summer. When I tried it earlier in the season (I used it for tea and for flavoring ice cream) it a somewhat coarser, more herbal flavor. Now its aroma is very light and heady. Some of that may be due to boiling it with sugar in jelly, but I noticed a difference even when I used it in tea. I am so amazed that the jellies turned out so beautiful. It was easy and everything was just right. The hard part is reproducing the experience. It is impossible because there are so many unpredictable variables involved: how ripe are the apples and how much pectin do they have? How acid are they? How tart? How easily do they release their juice? And my lemon verbena will never be precisely the same. With all of these variables, recipes can only be guidelines. I try not to use commercial pectin anymore, not only because I like a challenge and because, on a lucky day, the end result is superior, but because, paradoxically, using a jelling agent gives you less control over the process. You have to rely more on the recipe more and less on your instincts. Instructions for Apple Jelly (with Optional Herbal Flavor) Quarter or chop apples coarsely. Do not peel or core but cut off any brown spots. Put in large pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil and simmer for 30 minutes or until apples are soft and the skins come off. Pour apples through a fine sieve to collect juice. Let juice drain freely, do not push down pulp. Moisten four layers of cheesecloth or jelly bag. Fill remaining pulp in cheesecloth or jelly bag and find a way so that the bag can be suspended bag over a bowl and the juices can drain. For example, you can hang the bag from a cabinet handle and put the bowl under it. (There are also commercial stands for jelly bags you can buy.) Let juice drain overnight. The juice you last drained will be thicker and has more pectin. If you have enough juice for several batches, make sure you mix all the juice together before to dividing it into different batches. (The pulp that remains in the bag can be pushed through a food mill or strainer and used as applesauce. You may want to add some apple juice to it, or sweeten or season it, e.g. with cinnamon.) Get canning equipment and jars ready. Put several small plates into freezer. Measure the juice into a large heavy saucepan. Preferably, don't work with more than 6 cups of juice in one batch. Add a two-third (2/3) cup of sugar for each 1 cup of juice. Add strained juice of one lemon. If you want to flavor the jelly, tie about 3-5 large sprigs of herb (e.g lemon verbena, lemon balm, mint, lavender, rosemary etc.) into a bundle with kitchen twine. If using dried herbs tie ca. 2 tablespoons in a piece of cheesecloth or cotton tea bag. Add to the juice. Bring juice to a boil over high heat. Stir and watch it closely. It should boil vigorously. When it gets thicker (it may take anywhere from 5 to 20 minutes) pour a small spoonful on one of the plates from the freezer and put it back into the freezer for a minute or two. Stop cooking when jelly on the test plate is only slightly runnier than you would like it (It will continue cooking in the pot a bit as it cools off). It should wobble a bit when you shake the plat and when you pull a finger through it it should not run together anymore. Discard herbs if there are any. If there is a lot of foam you may want to skim it off and save it for immediate use. Pour jelly into hot jars leaving 1/4 inch headspace. Adjust lids and process in a boiling water bath canner for 10 minutes. Let jars cool off for at least twelve hours. The jelly should be jiggly but not totally firm. If it seems too soft give it some more time. It may take up to two weeks to completely set. Putting it in the refrigerator may help. If a batch is really too soft you can either use it as sauce on pancakes, ice cream etc. Or you can cook it again to a firmer consistency. It is better to err on the soft side though, because there is not much you can do if it is too hard. Please familiarize yourself with basic canning procedures and food-safety guidelines.

Mon, 08 Aug 2005 14:43:22 GMT

Sunday's Harvest Yesterday's harvest was not bad at all. Lots of eggplants. I almost waited too long and one had some brown spots inside. I made Moussaka (without meat). So good! But a lot of work since it involves so many steps before you can finally put the pan in the oven: broiling peppers and peeling them, broiling eggplant, frying potatoes, making toamto sauce, assembling the whole thing. But it was worth it. And we will still have leftovers tonight. I am getting the roof ready for my first attempt at fall planting. It seems a bit too hot still for anything tender to grow. But a late harvest of some beans, cucumbers, radishes and greens would be nice. I am contemplating setting up a very simple passive hydroponic system. Nothing complicated or mechanical. That way I wouldn't have to schlepp so much soil up there, and since I would drain the system in the winter there would be less weight with the added snow-load. I am still a bit skeptical whether it will actually work. I will set up a few very simple containers as a trial. I got some new tart apples at the market. Tonight I will make some apple jelly. Maybe scented with some lemon balm or lavender. Or lemon verbena. I can't decide. Maybe some of each. Or maybe just plain.

Tue, 26 Jul 2005 21:44:00 GMT

Mango Mania Inspired by food blogger Nupur we went to Jackson Heights last Saturday to check out the Indian neighborhood. I love to be a tourist in my own city! There was so much fresh and inexpensive produce, and of course I couldn't pass up the deal on mangoes by the box ... and then it was Mango Mania! I made mango sorbet, mango habanero salsa, mango jam and mango chutney. And of course there was plenty of mango to eat. I made the mango jam with 50% of sugar to the amount of fruit and added one cup of homemade juice from tart pectin-rich apples plus one cup of sugar and the juice of one lemon. The turned out fine. Fine, but not spectacular. I don't quite know what is lacking. Mango can sometimes be a bit one-dimensional. Maybe lime instead of lemon would have given it a bit more zing. Interestingly, the girls said that it was too sour. Lime zest might be interesting, too. And for some reason I keep thinking anise. Raspberries would definitely be great! Maybe I should go back and get another box. Or two.

Sat, 16 Jul 2005 17:20:24 GMT

Catching Up Coming back from a visit to Germany where I grew up and lived until I was 27, to me feels like a time of transition, and a good point to re-assess, think things over, and find ways to make adjustments. One of my resolutions is to take myself more seriously professionally, and in that vein, I did my best to finish an assignment as soon as I had started up my computer. And then there is summer. With the heat and the humidity came the bounty, and I am finally back to Pickles & Jams. However, after the jamming and jellying and by the time I have cleaned up my kitchen I am too exhausted to blog. I will try to keep up in bits and pieces, and not always in chronological order. I am learning and documenting my failures and successes is part of the process. So far I have made mulberry jelly and jam (I am not sure if it set enough, I may have to reprocess), cherry vanilla jam last night which came out great, pesto from the basil on my roof (this will be an ongoing project all summer long). Tonight I want to make some apple jelly from some "real" apples I picked up at the farmer's market. I need to look around for crabapples. I have a feeling there must be some apple trees on the campus of a nearby college. I am off to deal with some paperwork on my desk. Hopefully I will be back later, writing about mulberries or cherries.

Fri, 08 Jul 2005 03:10:45 GMT

Back We came back Tuesday night. The trip was good. We had quality time with friends and family. I will report more later. Culinary highlight: elderberry blossom "champagne." I never made anything like that before. It turned out great! Yesterday I went to the grocery store and on the way home I discovered a mulberry tree - with ripe berries that I could actually reach! I went back today and picked some, and later today clambered around in various parks with dog-owners. It turns out dog-owners know their parks! Now the juice is draining from the berries and hopefully tomorrow I will make jelly. I have no experience whatsoever with mulberries, but foraging for them is a lot of fun. My "garden" is growing wild. I have lots of tomatoes ripening, basil, eggplants etc. I have to spend some time with tidying up and growth control. I have to go to sleep now. I am exhausted. Jet-lag and mulberries.

Wed, 09 Mar 2005 13:51:22 GMT

Emerging Insights On Citrus Marmalade After studying lots of recipes, comparing, trying out and comparing again, I think I have arrived at something of a basic recipe, or at least a process I feel comfortable with. My main inspiration has been June Taylor although I have yet to taste any of her creations. I found a couple of her recipes on the Internet, and while I was never able to exactly follow any of them (due to differences in ingredients and quantities) her procedures for making marmalade (and her philosophy in general) make a lot of sense to me. In order to arrive at a concoction that jells in the right way (not too runny not too solid), won't spoil, tastes yummy and looks pretty, you need fruit, sugar, acid, water and pectin, heat and time. Your fruit already has some sugar, acid, water, and pectin and therefore, how much of these ingredients you need to add depends on the fruit you start out with. Basically, a real artisan marmalade maker would tailor the recipe to every particular batch of fruit. The two most important things I learnt during my recent adventures at Marmalade pot: 1) If you don't want your Marmalade to be bitter, keep out the white stuff (the pith, or albedo) because that's where most of the bitterness is. 2) The overall "character" of your marmalade is very much determined by how much rind you add, and how you cut it. If you cut very fine stripes (about 1/8 of an inch), they will pretty much disappear during the cooking, while imparting flavor and aroma (the rind is where the essential oils are). If you want the rinds to add more character, leave them about half an inch wide. Personally, I don't like a lot of big pieces of rind and I found that cutting them into relatively small pieces (squares or triangles) makes for a very pretty effect. Also possible: cut some rind very fine but leave some bits larger. Creative combinations are also possible, e.g. floating bits of Tangelo peel in Grapefruit-Tangelo Marmalade or Lemon squares in Orange Marmalade. Basic Process for Citrus Marmalade Wash your fruit. Select the prettiest pieces and peel them with a vegetable peeler. Cut the rind in stripes or pieces. Stop when you have about 1 cup (or more or less, depending on how much rind you like in your marmalade). Cut all the pith (and peel) away from the fruit and then cut the segments away from the membranes. Work over a bowl to catch the juice. This step is kind of messy and bit hard to describe but you will get the hang of it. Squeeze the juice out of the messy lump of membranes you're left with and collect all the membranes and seeds in another bowl. Stop when you have about 5 cups of segments (and juice). Put the rinds and the fruit in a large pot. Add the juice of 2-4 lemons (depending on how acid your fruit is). Add water, two cups should be ok. Put the mess of membranes and seeds in a jelly bag if you have one, or put it in at least 4 layers of cheesecloth and tie it with twine. Put this package in the pot as well. Bring to a boil and cook for 20-30 minutes until the peels are tender. While this is cooking get your canning stuff and jars and lids ready and put a small plate in the freezer (for the jell-test). Turn off heat. Put the package in a bowl and wait until it is cool enough to handle. The membranes are rich in pectin and you want to get as much of the pectin as possible to make the marmalade jell. To that end, squeeze and twist this package over the bowl until you think you can't coax any more of that thick white pectin-rich oooze out of it. This is a bit laborious and every drop counts. If you are using cheesecloth be careful that it doesn't burst or break. Stir the pectin back into the pot. Now it's time to add the sugar. Measure the fruit mixture. Traditional recipes would say add one cup of sugar per cup of fruit mixture. I have had good success with 2/3 cup of sugar per cup of fruit mixture. Add the sugar to the pot and stir to dissolve. Turn on the heat and watch closely, stirring frequently. Don't leave your post once it has started boiling. Let it come to a "full rolling boil." It will be all bubbly and foamy and a bit scary. Keep stirring. It will take at least 20 minutes until the marmalade is done, and may even take 45 minutes or more. You will know your are almost there when a candy thermometer reads close to 220 degrees, the mixture gets thicker, changes color and the bits of fruit and rind have become shiny and sort of transparent. Drop some marmalade on the plate from the freezer. Wait a bit and trace a line with your finger through it, if it doesn't flow back together and doesn't run when you tilt the plate it should be done. (I overcooked the first jams I made because I was so worried they wouldn't jell. I prefer a softer set and if you end up with marmalade that is too runny you can always cook it again but it is harder to doctor up overcooked jam. It will continue to set as it cools; it can take up to two weeks after processing to fully set.) Take pot from heat. Quickly fill hot jars, seal and process for 10 minutes). Take jars out of canner and let cool for a couple of hours. Check to see if vacuum has formed, label and store.

Fri, 04 Mar 2005 15:45:10 GMT

Many Hats The box of citrus came and the grapefruits and tangelos look beautiful and very fresh, the Valencia Oranges looked like they needed to be dealt with first. Therefore I went to work on Wednesday and made the Orange Marmalade first. It was quite labor-intense but well worth it, both for the result and the learning process. The Marmalade is very fruity and has beautiful color. It is a bit runny still, although it may still set up more. Nobody seems to mind though. It is not bitter at all, and maybe a bit too tame for Marmalade purists. A more traditional marmalade would have more peels, be thicker and a bit bitter. On Thursday morning I got a call from my neighbor who had a childcare issue so I ended up spending a very pleasant day with a 2-year old. Of course, the grapefruits have to wait. On top of it, a client sent me some work due on Monday, and that will have to take priority anyway. The job is not very large and I get probably get through in the evenings. My neighbor will look after my children on Sunday and it will all work out in the end. I get to the Grapefruit at some point over the weekend. Good thing they were so fresh when they came. I have saved the peels from the oranges that I wanted to candy and put up in syrup. I may have to pop them in the freezer. I managed to string up some lemon and orange peel strips and they look beautiful hanging in my window in the sunlight. I'll see if I can take a picture later. Now, I have to take over from Mr. Rogers and get back to the playdough. (Sorry, time no proof or edit).

Sun, 27 Feb 2005 04:11:07 GMT

Recipe Disasters Per my husband's request I made Salt cod for dinner again last night. It was not a repeat success. The piece of fish just was not as nice. It was of very uneven thickness and took forever to cook. The potatoes took forever as well, probably because I skimped on the oil. I remember last time I made the dish, it did not take long at all. The children did not want any of it, although they had liked it last time. There were plenty of leftovers from the last couple of days to choose from: One had Soba-Noodles and the other Black Bean and Corn Salad. They were really not all that hungry having filled up on some great Italian Bread I picked up in the Bronx on the way home from our outing to Wave Hill. My husband said maybe we shouldn't make this anymore if they don't eat any. Oh no, I said, next time I will only make half of the cod, leave the rest of the potatoes plain, and fry a couple of eggs for them. And next time, I will parboil the potatoes first so they don't take forever and won't need that much oil. I did not say this, but I will also make the potatoes the way I like them: with caraway seeds and a bit of cayenne. I love potatoes with eggs. That's the way it goes with recipes. You try them out, and then you tinker and adjust until you have made a dish your own. There will be a clipped recipe tucked away somewhere but no one bothers to actually look at it. The other day I made Pineapple-Mandarin Preserves with Ginger. I am trying to get behind the recipes, trying to find out what makes fruit jell on its own. I am trying to zone in on whatever batch of fruit I have on hand and make the amount of sugar etc. work for that particular batch. I had planned on making jam, but I ended up with "Preserves," chunks of fruit in a thick syrup. The taste is great, though. The bits of mandarin peel give it a nice tartness and lots of aroma and the ginger adds some kick. To improve the consistency, I need to cutt the fruit in smaller pieces and add some water or Mandarin juice (I was using frozen Mandarin peels I had saved). Yesterday I looked through my Ball Blue Book of Preserving, and what do I find: a recipe for Pineapple Jam using almost the identical amounts of fruit to sugar I had come up with, but they added a cup of water! At first I thought I could have saved myself all the trouble of figuring it out by myself, but then I realized that I had actually done well. After all, I had gotten it almost perfect, and I knew what needed to be done fix it. I guess I am on the right track. And if I may say so, with the mandarin peel and the ginger, my version has way more pizzaz!

Fri, 11 Feb 2005 15:06:53 GMT

Strawberries in February I can always dream, can't I? Or I could go to the supermarket and get some over-priced suspiciously gigantic greenish-tinged things in a plastic box. Or I could dig in my freezer and pull out a bag of the organic strawberries we picked last summer. We picked a lot and I made jams and sauce to pour over ice-cream and when there were still some left I froze them because I could not imagine that we could ever use up all that jam, but guess what. Here I am in February rummaging around in my pantry. All the jam is gone. Last summer I made several kinds of strawberry jam: full sugar with pectin, half-sugar, no sugar, and preserves. The no-sugar was a mistake, the full-sugar unnecessarily sweet, the half-sugar had just the right sweetness, and the preserves never set but were great poured over pancakes. Actually, the preserves had the best flavor owing to the lemon I had added. In terms of technique I learned that it really helps to skim off as much of the foam as possible. The jam just looks better and you can have the foam on toast for breakfast the next day. And I learned to solve the "floating fruit problem" by stirring the jam after it is done until it starts to gel just a bit. And if there still is "floatage" after it comes out of the canner you can turn it upside down, roll it around and do other fun stuff to it, but only after you heard the "ping," inicating the jars have sealed. Here I am in February making
Reduced Sugar Strawberry Jam with Lemon When making jam from frozen fruit you have all the fun and none of the mess. I have come to appreciate just the right amount of sugar. Something happens when you add sugar. The fruit is transformed. The color deepens and shines. And there is the magic pectin jell that is so hard to come by without teh help of sugar. The no-sugar jam I made last summer was lacking not only in flavor but it also had a very dull color. I love honey and while the raspberry pear jam I made with honey had a good jell and tasted wonderfully, its color was not as vivid as I would have liked. For now, I think half sugar is the way to go, but I look forward to tinkering more with pectins (added or not) and sweeteners. Reduced Sugar Strawberry Jam with Lemon 2 qts. strawberries
1 organic lemon
1 cup apple cider or juice
3 cups sugar
1 package no-sugar needed pectin
Get canning equipment and jars ready. Mash strawberries and measure 5 cups.
Wash lemon, trim ends. Cut into chunks and remove seeds. In a food processor, grind lemon very finely. Put lemon in a cup measure and fill with apple juice, measuring to one cup. Pour strawberries and lemon-juice mixture into large saucepan. Sprinkle pectin over fruit and stir in carefully to avoid lumps. Bring pot to a full boil, stirring constantly. Add sugar and continue stirring. When mixture has come to a full rolling boil, keep stirring and let it boil for one minute exactly. Remove from heat. Keep stirring until jam starts to thicken, ca. 5 minutes. Fill into hot jars leaving 1/4 inch headspace. Adjust lids and process in a boiling water bath canner for 10 minutes. Yield: ca. 6 half-pints. Please familiarize yourself with basic canning procedures and food-safety guidelines.

Mon, 31 Jan 2005 16:23:48 GMT

Crimson Beauties I went to the Union Square Green Market on Saturday in search of more beets for pickling. Pickled beets are such a convenient side to have on hand and add a splash of color to any dreary winter day. I like to use very small beets, not larger than a ping-pong ball, and can them whole. They look so pretty! Saturday night I got all my canning paraphernalia out. As always, I had a hard time estimating how many jars I would need. The small whole beets would go into quart jars, and the larger ones would be sliced and go into pints. To be served as a side, a quart jar of whole small pickles is just the perfect quantity for us, a family of four. And the same is true for a pint of sliced beets, since the slices are packed in tighter. I had made pickled beets a couple of times before, and one thing I learned was not to overcook them. After cleaning them, I put them in a large pot, covered them with water, and took care to cook them just long enough for the peels to slip off, but while they still had a bit off resistance in the center. They will soften some more during processing in the jars, and anyway, we prefer them firmer rather than mushy. The easiest way to get off the peels-and the least messy-is to work under running cold water. When the small ones were ready, I plunged them in a bowl of ice water and started peeling them in the sink. The larger ones took a bit longer. (Beets peeled and waiting to go into jars) While the beets were cooking, I got the syrup ready. I madee a double batch, following the recipe I had used before, from Keeping the Harvest by Nancy Chioffi and Gretchen Mead (Storey Publishing, 2002). I used less sugar though, and changed the spices, using cumin and mint. While getting the syrup ready, it occurred to me that I had forgotten to put the big canning kettle on so that the boiling water bath would be ready once the jars were filled. But since I was using a huge pot for boiling the beets and a large one for making the syrup, there was no room on the stove for the canner anyway. In the end, it worked out perfectly: When I had the last batch of beets in the sink, I moved the syrup pot and put the canner on the back burner. By the time all the beets were prepared and arranged in jars with syrup over them, the water was boiling. I ended up with 2 quarts, 3 pints and 2 half-pints. (Pickled beets cooling after processing) Now we have to be patient and wait at least two weeks before opening a jar. They taste better once the vinegar and all the flavors have settled in. Pickled Beets with Cumin and Mint

Adapted from Keeping the Harvest by Nancy Chioffi and Gretchen Mead (Storey Publishing, 2002) About 5 lbs. of beets

1 cup sugar

1.5 tsp. pickling salt

4 cups cider vinegar (or half cider vinegar, half white vinegar)

2 cups water

1 tbs. dried mint

1 tbs. whole cumin seeds

Get canning equipment and jars ready. Clean beets, put in pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil and cook until skins slip off, ca. 20 minutes depending on size.

While beets are cooking, toast cumin seeds in a small skillet until fragrant. Mix with the other syrup ingredients in a pot and bring to a boil, keep at a simmer until ready to pour over beets.

When beets are ready, transfer them to a bowl with cold water and slip off skins. Trim off roots, and the bits of peel that wouldn't come off etc. Leave small beets whole and slice or quarter larger ones.

Arrange beets in hot jars, leaving half inch head-space. Fill with syrup to half inch head-space. remove air bubbles.

Adjust lids and process in a boiling water bath canner for 30 minutes. Yield: ca. 3 quarts or 6 pints. Please familiarize yourself with basic canning procedures and food-safety guidelines. Adjust processing times for elevations over 1000 feet.

Tue, 18 Jan 2005 03:27:43 GMT

Candied Orange Peel I made candied orange peel today. I had never made any before, and, my gosh, it took forever. The result is nothing like the sugary goo they sell in the stores. It has great orange color, is not overly sweet and really tastes like orange, a bit bitter, but maybe that was my fault. For a couple of weeks I had been collecting the peels of organic oranges in the freezer. I decided today was the day and took a bag out. First you have to cover the peels with cold water and bring to a boil. Pour off the water and repeat two more times. This supposedly gets the bitterness out. When I was done and the peels sat in a strainer, I needed something else from the freezer, and what did a find? Another bag of orange peels. Repeat procedure above. Then I had to cut the pith off (because this is the bitter part) and cut the peels in stripes. If you don't start out with frozen peels, you actually do this first, before you boil multiple times. The activity extended over several time zones: first, I sat and scraped and cut while the children did homework and then, after they were in bed, I listened to the radio. Finally, it was time to make the syrup and gently simmer the peels until translucent and all the syrup was absorbed. It seemd to take forever and suddenly, just as I thought they would never get translucent, all the syrup was gone and the peels were transformed. They were candied! I rolled them in sugar and now they are cooling on wax paper. Wow! Next time I candy something I try something less pithy, like pineapple.

Sat, 15 Jan 2005 01:50:54 GMT

The Little Japanese Grater Here is a picture of my hard-working little Japanese grater. It has no name or at least none that I can read because all the text on the box and on the grater is in Japanese. No instructions necessary. All you need to do is switch the blade and it is self-eveodent how do to that. There are various blades: one for paperthin slices, the others for shredding. It is really great and you can't beat the price.

Thu, 23 Dec 2004 03:56:02 GMT

Too Many Nuts Birdie has asked me what to do with her overabundance of nuts. Regretfully, I don't have any experience with nuts, especially Macadamia Nuts. They are very expensive here on the East coast. Growing up we had a huge walnut tree and I remember the nuts we stored for the winter often went moldy. I found some useful info on nuts at the Michigan State University Extension Service Website, a reliable source for food preservation information. In a nutshell (sorry), if you want to store nuts safely and for the long term, you need to dry them first. In a protected place, drying them will take a couple of weeks; alternatively it can be done faster in a food dehydrator. Because nuts have oils that can go rancid, they are best stored in the refrigerator or freezer, and if space permits in the shell. They will keep for up to eight months. An abundance of nuts (especially Macadamia) is a wonderful thing. In addition to using them in baking, you could make nut butter or even nut milk (I have never done that; the process seems a bit tedious), add them to cereal and muesli, mix with dry fruit for a snack or make a spicy snack mix. I have found that toasting nuts lightly before use greatly improves their flavor. Her is some nutritional info for Macadamia Nuts. Enjoy your nuts!